Marine Geophysics and oceanography

Knowledge and understanding:

• Students will acquire an in-depth understanding of the physical processes governing the oceans, including ocean circulation, waves, tides, and ocean-atmosphere interactions.
• They will be able to explain the theoretical principles underlying the main oceanographic phenomena, integrating concepts from physics, mathematics, and meteorology.
• Students will acquire the theoretical principles and applications of geophysical methods in marine environments. 
• Students will understand the phenomena underlying the generation of seismic noise in marine environments related to the sea state.

Applying knowledge and understanding:

• Students will be able to apply the acquired knowledge to analyze oceanographic data and interpret physical models.
• They will acquire the ability to solve complex problems in physical oceanography, connecting theory and observations to explain physical phenomena.
• Through the knowledge acquired, students will be able to select the most appropriate method of analysis to apply in the marine environment depending on the problem at hand.
• They will be able to analyze oceanographic data using software such as MATLAB.
• Students will be able to select the geophysical instrumentation and methodology to be used according to the geological-marine context under investigation.

Making judgements:

• Students will be able to critically evaluate scientific studies in the field of physical oceanography.
• They will be capable of formulating independent judgements regarding complex physical processes governing the oceans.
• Students will be able to critically evaluate results obtained from surveys.

Communication skills:

• Students will develop skills in communicating scientific results, using appropriate technical language.
• They will be able to collaborate effectively in multidisciplinary teams, contributing specific expertise in physical oceanography and geophysics.

Learning skills:

• Acquisition of adequate cognitive tools for the continuous updating of knowledge and the ability to access specialized literature in the field of physical oceanography and marine geophysics.

The course consists of lectures covering the theoretical treatment of the physical oceanography and marine geophysics content, and practical exercises in the MATLAB environment for processing and interpreting real oceanographic data (e.g., time series of significant wave height, two-dimensional maps of oceanographic parameters, COPERNICUS/ERA5 data).

Should the course be delivered in blended or remote mode, appropriate adjustments may be introduced with respect to the above, in order to ensure consistency with the program set out in this syllabus.

Initial realignment: Brief review of mathematics, basic physics, and terrestrial physics required for the course.

Introduction to oceanography: spatial and temporal scales of physical oceanographic phenomena, brief history of physical oceanography;

Dimensions, shapes, and materials of the ocean floor: dimensions, plate tectonics and topography of the ocean depths, seafloor characteristics, spatial scales, coast, beach, continental shelf slope and rise, straits and ocean passages, methods for mapping seafloor topography, ocean floors, ocean basins, the Mediterranean Sea;

Physical properties of seawater: molecular properties of water, pressure, thermal properties, density, tracers, sound in the sea, sea ice;

Typical distributions of water properties: distribution of ocean temperature, salinity distribution, density distribution, dissolved oxygen, nutrients and other tracers, age, turnover time, and ventilation rate;

Mass, salt, and heat budgets: conservation of volume and mass, conservation of salt, conservation of thermal energy, heat budget, geographic distribution and temporal variation of heat budget terms, meridional heat transport, buoyancy fluxes;

Dynamic processes of ocean circulation: mechanisms, momentum balance, mixing between layers, response to wind forcing, geostrophic balance, vorticity, wind-driven circulation;

Gravity waves and tides: general properties of waves, surface gravity waves, internal gravity waves, tides;

Observations in the oceans: in situ observations, remote sensing of global ocean circulation, synthesis and perspectives;

The magnetic method: basic concepts of magnetism, magnetic survey, interpretation and applicability to the context of marine exploration; The gravimetric method: basic concepts of gravimetry, survey, corrections to gravity observations, methods and applicability to the marine context.

Basic concepts in the MATLAB environment and applications to oceanographic data.

Lowrie, W., & Fichtner, A. (2020): Fundamentals of geophysics. Cambridge University Press. 

Siedler, Gerold, et al. Ocean circulation and climate: a 21st century perspective. Academic Press, 2013. 

Schroeder, K. & Chiggiato, J. Oceanography of the Mediterranean Sea: an introductory guide.
Lecture notes

The exam consists of an oral test lasting approximately 30 minutes, aimed at assessing the student's level of knowledge, understanding, and language proficiency regarding the theoretical and methodological content outlined in the syllabus. Students may begin the exam by presenting a topic of their choice and carrying out MATLAB exercises related to oceanographic data (for example, developing time series of significant wave height, two-dimensional maps of significant wave height, and other parameters).

 Learning assessment may also be carried out on-line, should the conditions require it. To ensure equal opportunities and in compliance with current laws, interested students may request a personal interview in order to plan any compensatory and/or dispensatory measures based on educational objectives and specific needs. Students can also contact the CInAP (Centro per l'integrazione Attiva e Partecipata – Servizi per le Disabilità e/o i DSA) referring teacher within their department (https://www.cinap.unict.it/content/referenti)

What is the difference between Lagrangian and Eulerian instruments?

What is a spring tide and a storm surge?

What are internal waves? Discuss their characteristics and forcing mechanisms.

What are tides?

Discuss the principle of conservation of volume.

What is albedo?

What are tracers and why are they useful?

Give some examples of tracers.

What is the Ekman spiral?